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Post by hawkingfisherman on Nov 28, 2008 20:01:00 GMT
Hello to everyone,i'm new to the forum and are after a bit of advice. I do alot of trout fishing on the fly, and have been trying for a salmon on the spinner the last couple of years, but not caught yet  . I have managed to get a double handed fly rod, reel etc at a bargin price of an uncle who hardly used it, so he sold it to me as it is something i'm intested in learning how to use,and would love to catch my first salmon on the fly. The problem i have is i dont know what the best set up is to have. I have heard of shooting heads but dont really know alot about them. I dont what lenght leeda most poeple use, etc. Could people please say what set up they use for different water conditions. Thanks Dan |
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Speyducer
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Post by Speyducer on Nov 28, 2008 20:27:27 GMT
Hi Dan,
Welcome to the forum.
Before you get into which line or line type to use with the double hander rod you have, some further info on the rod is the best starting point.
What length of rod is it?
Also, the make & model or rod?
And, possibly most importantly, what line indication is marked on the rod - this info should be marked on the rod near the maker's name & model, such as #10, or AFTM 10, (or other numbers like that).
From the above info., you can then learn what line type & length is likely to work or match the rod.
Later, the rivers you will be fishing may be important, as well as getting a few lessons to learn the double handed casting techniques, and trial out a few lines.
Mike
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Post by G Ritchie on Nov 28, 2008 21:30:31 GMT
There are some good general purpose lines out there and some have more specialist applications. As Speyducer has pointed out, the choice of line(s) will depend on the rod length and line rating, on the size of river you are going to be fishing, on the time of the year and on conditions on the day (river height, colour and temperature and factors like wind strength). For summer fishing on a smaller or medium sized river you can cover most options with a short belly Spey line and a set of polyleaders for when you need to present the fly a little deeper. Shooting heads have some advantages in some situations, but for all round fishing I would personally stick with a full line.
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Post by hawkingfisherman on Nov 28, 2008 22:45:28 GMT
Thanks guys, the rod is a 13 1/2 foot AFTM 10-11. I use polyleaders for trout fishing to give different sink rates, do many people use them with a floating line on a salmon rod.
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Post by hawkingfisherman on Nov 28, 2008 22:46:39 GMT
by the way what does AFTM stand for?
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Post by annanangler on Nov 28, 2008 23:24:23 GMT
I use polyleaders for trout fishing to give different sink rates, do many people use them with a floating line on a salmon rod. In answer to your question .... Yep! Polyleaders play a very big part in my Salmon fishing  |
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Speyducer
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Post by Speyducer on Nov 28, 2008 23:38:35 GMT
by the way what does AFTM stand for? Association of Fishing Tackle Manufacturers Some time back, it was decided to standardise fly line weights across the tackle manufacturing industry so that it could be easier to select the correct line weight to match the rod. For trout lines, the 30' from the tip (excludes between 6 and 24" of the final level tip) of the line into the body is what is being measured and thus rated as a #3, or #4 line for example. It has been a little different for salmon lines, and it has been convention to weigh the first (tip first) 60' of line to come up with the line rating. However, the AFTM rating system was adopted when double taper lines were the norm. Salmon line ratings have now got a bit convoluted with the development & appearance of the more 'advanced' tapers - weight forward etc, and now the shorter heads, and shooting heads, and even super short 'Skagit' heads. To cut through most of the mess line ratings have gotten into, most realistic fishermen now consider it important to weigh the whole 'head' of the fly line, whether that head is 40', 55' or 85'. The most important feature is to match the line weight with the rod for the 'average' caster, and one can make finer adjustments with personal preferences & personal casting styles later - and with a great dollop of help with some professional instruction, thereafter practice, practice & more practice. Mike |
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Speyducer
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Post by Speyducer on Nov 28, 2008 23:45:25 GMT
Polyleaders) in different sink rates, are really fine tuning of the sinking tip nature of mainly floating lines, and are really used extensively by many salmon fishermen now.
I personally regard them as finer extensions on the fly line, certainly finer than conventional fly line sink tips, and the only warning that I would give is that they are monocore (usually copolymer) with a 'rated' coating. As monocore, they do have a limited lifespan, whereas the braided core of a sink-tip does not have such a limited lifespan.
Very useful all the same.
Mike
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Speyducer
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Post by Speyducer on Nov 28, 2008 23:48:15 GMT
Thanks guys, the rod is a 13 1/2 foot AFTM 10-11. I use polyleaders for trout fishing to give different sink rates, do many people use them with a floating line on a salmon rod. What make is the rod? A #10/11 rating is quite heavy for a 13'6" rod. Mike |
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Post by hawkingfisherman on Nov 29, 2008 8:02:21 GMT
Its a shakesphere rod, i dont think it is a partically expensive one.
So would i be best with i WF or a DT line to get going.
With the polyleaders do you use the 10ft ones and what lenght tipet would be best.
Thanks for the help, much apprecaited
Dan
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klops
Active Member
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Post by klops on Nov 29, 2008 22:26:41 GMT
I use only Scandi heads and do not see any reason to use another type of lines.
With Scandi heads the most important things is weight of them. If you know proper weight of line for you rod
with precious scale and measuring tape you can adjust each heads for your needs.
For example if we know that for 15’ 10/11 Stinger we need head about 38-39g and 12,5m.
Same caster (good one) can use for this rod head 35g . For somebody who like to load rod more 40g will be OK.
But it is no sense for this very fast rod. Also floating line has to be little bit heavier because normally for them we use floating or intermediate polileader.
They have 1,5-2g. For sinking line of course we use sinking polileader which are up 5g.
Another subject it is length. Of course longer, rod longer head. But if we need head for deep wading or for difficult conditions has to be little bit shorter
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Post by G Ritchie on Dec 3, 2008 21:05:10 GMT
Its a Shakespeare rod, i don't think it is a particularly expensive one. So would i be best with i WF or a DT line to get going. With the polyleaders do you use the 10ft ones and what length tipet would be best. Thanks for the help, much appreciated Dan If it is one of the older Shakespeare rods, it will have been rated with DT lines. A 10/11 rod would have been used with a DT10 for overhead casting or a DT11 for Spey casting. If it is a medium or smaller river you intend to fish, say for example the North Esk, then a DT line will work OK because you don't really need to cast any real distance. Alternatively you could use one of the more modern Spey lines and considering the length of the rod, I would personally stick with one of the short headed lines, for example the Airflo Delta Spey, Hardy Mach 2, Snowbee 1D or the Rio Windcutter. For overhead casting a Spey line in a 9/10 rating should be fine or for Speycasting one in a 10/11. I would strongly recommend you learning to Spey cast, it will allow you to fish tree lined pools which you could not cover with an overhead cast. Generally after the early spring months, on most rivers you can cover most options with a floating line and some polyleaders, I would recommend as a minimum, the 10ft in intermediate, fast sinking and extra super fast sinking and the 5ft in intermediate and fast sinking. If fishing a full floating line I would use a leader of 12 to 15ft, with and intermediate polyleader, a tippet of 6 to 10 feet and with a sinking polyleader a tippet of 3 to 8 feet. |
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Post by hawkingfisherman on Dec 4, 2008 17:32:04 GMT
If it is one of the older Shakespeare rods, it will have been rated with DT lines. A 10/11 rod would have been used with a DT10 for overhead casting or a DT11 for Spey casting. If it is a medium or smaller river you intend to fish, say for example the North Esk, then a DT line will work OK because you don't really need to cast any real distance. Alternatively you could use one of the more modern Spey lines and considering the length of the rod, I would personally stick with one of the short headed lines, for example the Airflo Delta Spey, Hardy Mach 2, Snowbee 1D or the Rio Windcutter. For overhead casting a Spey line in a 9/10 rating should be fine or for Speycasting one in a 10/11. I would strongly recommend you learning to Spey cast, it will allow you to fish tree lined pools which you could not cover with an overhead cast. Generally after the early spring months, on most rivers you can cover most options with a floating line and some polyleaders, I would recommend as a minimum, the 10ft in intermediate, fast sinking and extra super fast sinking and the 5ft in intermediate and fast sinking. If fishing a full floating line I would use a leader of 12 to 15ft, with and intermediate polyleader, a tippet of 6 to 10 feet and with a sinking polyleader a tippet of 3 to 8 feet. Thanks alot for such a good reply, just what a was wanting to know. Dan |
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. I have managed to get a double handed fly rod, reel etc at a bargin price of an uncle who hardly used it, so he sold it to me as it is something i'm intested in learning how to use,and would love to catch my first salmon on the fly. 
