how do you attach a tube fly?

[warrenhouse0]

A basic question I know, but reading all the posts it seems that the 'Monkey' is the must have fly so I duly bought a set of mixed sizes.

However, they came without hooks and what I need to know is what else do I need to complete the fly. Do I need a swivel attachment to the line? a solid wire through the tube? and which hooks would anybody recommend? also is it best to have doubles or trebles?

Thanks for any help

[Speyducer]

Tying on a tube fly - monkey

Monkey/Sunray Shadow tube fly – plastic tube
Short section of Silicone junction tubing
#4 Loop tube double hook
20lb bs Yo Zuri leader



Attach junction tubing section to rear of plastic tube of fly



Attach hook temporarily into junction tubing to see how it fits & check its relative size for the fly



Run the leader through the tube



Using a Trilene knot, pass the leader end twice through the eye of the double hook



Take 4 or 5 turns of the free end of the leader around the line above the leader double pass loops



Pass the free end of the leader through both leader loops through the hook eye, and the moisten the knot and snug down, and trim the free end of the leader leaving a short tag only



Re-attach the hook into the junction tubing, in this case with the hook points down…



or with the hook points up….



Mike

[fisherscottage]

We use the Partridge Heavy Nymph doubles, (not the Big Mouth doubles) 8s and 10s, they are a stronger hook and a third of the price, 30p each.

Take care, T&J.

PS. Would'nt use anything else in Norway.

[warrenhouse0]

Mike - thank you for this idiot proof guide (though you haven't met me yet....) - it all looks so simple!

[owen]

Mike,

When would you have the double 'points up' or 'points down'. With the former does it not turn the fly over making the wing flow underneath? Even if it does is this a problem? Does having the hook closer to or even within the wing cause any hooking problems?

Also the tubing, Ive had a few pop off as I was using too little tubing. Now run tubing right along the hook, stopping where the double starts to split. Thinking being the tubing if secured at the tube at one end and 'jammed' againt the fork at the other would make hook more likely to stay where I want it.

Thoughts?

[roeangler]

Apr 4, 2009 13:19:08 GMT fisherscottage said:

We use the Partridge Heavy Nymph doubles, (not the Big Mouth doubles) 8s and 10s, they are a stronger hook and a third of the price, 30p each.

Take care, T&J.

PS. Would'nt use anything else in Norway.

Could you tell me do the heavy nymph doubles come with down turned eyes

[Speyducer]

Apr 5, 2009 20:59:51 GMT roeangler said:

Apr 4, 2009 13:19:08 GMT fisherscottage said:

We use the Partridge Heavy Nymph doubles, (not the Big Mouth doubles) 8s and 10s, they are a stronger hook and a third of the price, 30p each.

Take care, T&J.

PS. Would'nt use anything else in Norway.

Could you tell me do the heavy nymph doubles come with down turned eyes

Very slightly downturned eyes, yes.

Mike

[Speyducer]

Apr 5, 2009 11:24:45 GMT owen said:

Mike,

When would you have the double 'points up' or 'points down'. With the former does it not turn the fly over making the wing flow underneath? Even if it does is this a problem? Does having the hook closer to or even within the wing cause any hooking problems?

Also the tubing, Ive had a few pop off as I was using too little tubing. Now run tubing right along the hook, stopping where the double starts to split. Thinking being the tubing if secured at the tube at one end and 'jammed' againt the fork at the other would make hook more likely to stay where I want it.

Thoughts?

As the main wing, which gives the fly the 'lift' force in the water, is on top, then the fly should swim with this wing uppermost whichever orientation the hook points are - I have tested this repeatedly in water, and it is almost always the case that the wing, when significantly longer & bulkier than the rest of the fly components will swim uppermost.

I have had only the most minimal problems with the the longer & soft-winged flies tangling with the hook, wherever the hook is placed in relation to that wing, and whether or not the hook is fitted point up or point down. I usually use tube double hooks.

The hook security into the junction tubing during normal fishing should not really be a major issue. However, if the junction tubing is too loose on the tubing of the fly, it can work loose and slide down onto the hook shank, and then the hook may hinge when being fished. This can be solved by using junction tubing which is really tight to fit onto the rear of the tubing of the tube fly itself, and hence less likely to work loose just with casting and fishing.

If too short a section of junction tubing is used, then only a small overlap is available to attach it to the tubing of the fly itself, and perhaps only a small recess is available for the hook to be slid into.

I have not used any method in the tube fly construction to secure the junction tubing within the dressing, and have opted to always have the facility of being able to exchange the junction tubing on any individual tube fly.

Depending on the neatness of fit of the junction tubing over the rear of the tube fly itself, I have found that about 1/2 inch section of junction tubing is the length required to satisfy all the needs of the tube fly for casting & fishing.

If & when you hook & play a fish, and almost certainly if you snag the fly on bottom or bank structure, or bash the the fly off shingle, rocks & cliffs (& whatever else gets into the path of your fly!), then the normal positioning & security of the hook into the junction tubing, and the junction tubing attachment to the rear of the tube fly may become separated or damaged.

I such damage of separation does happen without you noticing, then hingeing may occur, and the hook may swing round in a cast and hook the leader, and the fly would then be fishing badly.

Mike

[owen]

Mike,

Thanks for your, as always, detailed response.

One question remains though, when would you fish points up and when points down? Im thinking from your reply that as the wing decides which way up the fly swims, points up would be good if you were fishing over a snaggy bottom or very near any sort of bottom to help prevent getting caught up?

Thanks again,
Nolon.

[Speyducer]

Apr 7, 2009 7:17:25 GMT owen said:

Mike,

Thanks for your, as always, detailed response.

One question remains though, when would you fish points up and when points down? Im thinking from your reply that as the wing decides which way up the fly swims, points up would be good if you were fishing over a snaggy bottom or very near any sort of bottom to help prevent getting caught up?

Thanks again,
Nolon.

Hi Nolon,

I have used both orientations of the double hook, and have honestly not noticed any difference in hook up rates. However, you are quite right in thinking that hook points up will tend to snag less on bottom structure, and thus, if you are fishing the fly deep down in cold water, whether using a weighted fly or when using a sinking line or tip to get the fly down, it would appear to make a bit more sense to deploy the double hook with points up.

Mike

[G Ritchie]

Another time to fish with the hook points up is in the autumn when there are a lot of leaves floating down the water. The wing acts as a weed guard.

[owen]

Mike / Graham,

Thanks for that, will give it a shot. If points up helps prevent snagging on the bottom, catching leaves in the autumn, doesnt turn the fly over in the water and doesn't affect hook up rates sounds like its worth using most of the time.

Cheers,
Nolon,

[Speyducer]

Definitely worth using hooks point up from now on -

Mike